Despite the forecast, live like it's spring!
- Lilly Pulitzer
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Week 12: Spring
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I had the best week last week! I got to introduce three of my dearest friends to my wonderful hometown of Paducah, Kentucky. The trip didn't end up being exactly what we had planned - you know how life gets in the way sometimes - but it was just perfect. Our original plan was that two of my good Durham friends, Dana and Deanna, would meet my ex-Galveston, now Tennessee friend Mary Jo and me in Nashville, make the short drive to Paducah, and spend a few days exploring. So, while we all flew to Nashville (except Mary Jo, who lives nearby), we didn't get there at the same time or leave at the same time, so we sort of did the town in shifts. What that meant for me was I got to stay longer and see more hometown friends than I would have, so it was all good.
If you've never been to Paducah before, or if you've only driven through it or spent time there without knowing what to do, add it to your list of places to go when you have a few days to explore, relax, and enjoy all it has to offer. Paducah is not a place most people just happen on, although four US Highways (60, 62, 68, and 45) and an interstate go right through it - you sort of have to want to be there. And there are plenty of reasons that you might want to be! You may not know that
Paducah is a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art, thanks to the efforts of my friend and high school classmate, Mary Hammond, who works tirelessly to promote Paducah and all of its charm through her position as the Executive Director of the Paducah Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Paducah is also home to the
National Quilt Museum (Quilt Week is coming up next week!!) and it brought artists of all kinds to town due to its forward-thinking
Artist Relocation Program, which revitalized the Lower Town section of the city. Situated at the confluence of the Tennessee and Ohio Rivers, and less than 30 miles away from the Cumberland and Mississippi Rivers,
Paducah is the consummate river town. In the spring, summer, and fall, riverboats full of tourists dock at the foot of Broadway, and barges pushed by towboats travel up and down the rivers every day. And you know that where there is river traffic, there are railroads. I grew up listening to the sound of trains passing in the night, so it was almost comforting to hear the wail of the horn and the clackety-clack of the wheels in the middle of the night.
Because the city was formed due to its proximity to the rivers, you might deduce that flooding can be an issue. Paducah had three major floods - two in the 1800s and the
big one in 1937, when 90% of the town was under water. After that debacle, a floodwall and earthen levee system were built around over 12 miles of the perimeter of the town. The concrete wall (3 miles long) is 14 feet high and has twelve pump stations and 47 vehicular openings (which are closed with pressurized gates in case of the threat of flooding). Tested as recently as 2011, when the river crested at 55.03 feet (the '37 flood was at 60 feet, but flood stage is 50 feet!), the floodwall has saved Paducah more than once. Gates have already been closed once this year!
The wall was constructed by the US Army Corps of Engineers between 1939 and 1949, and today, the downtown portion of the wall is covered in gorgeous murals depicting the history of Paducah. This project is called
Paducah Wall to Wall and was created by artist Robert Dafford and staff of Lafayette, Louisiana. In addition to being beautiful, these painted panels tell the story of Paducah from its founding by William Clark (of Lewis and Clark fame) to its heyday in the 50s when Paducah became the Atomic City. It's a great way for visitors to get a feel for the city I proudly call home.
OK, so much for the commercial - Paducah really is a great place to visit and an even better place to grow up! But back to the present. Dana, Mary Jo, and I arrived in Paducah on Monday afternoon and checked in to our downtown boutique hotel,
The 1857 Hotel. Our room was on the front of the building, so we had a great view of Kentucky Avenue and the historic
Market House Theatre. We were really hungry, so we headed off to
Tribeca for a quick bite of Mexican food, then we walked by the huge
Carson Center for Performing Arts (holds 1800 people - not bad for a city of 25,000!) on our way to admire the floodwall murals and check out the riverfront. We took the obligatory 'Port of Paducah' photos and I explained about the geography of Paducah and its rivers. After we'd seen all of the murals, we walked down Broadway to 9th street and then headed back down Kentucky Avenue to our hotel. Like many small towns, the combination of the interstate (I-24 goes right through Paducah, too) and the building of a mall out by the interstate was almost the death knell for our downtown. While it is not yet the vibrant downtown full of shops, movie houses, businesses, and people that I grew up with, it is not dead by a long shot! I love seeing new businesses opening up each time I return.
Next it was time for a driving tour, past the home and neighborhood where I grew up, with detours past my schools, church, and high spots like
Noble Park and Hancock's Fabrics. Dana and I have another friend in Durham who also grew up in Paducah, so we went by her old house, too. Dana was driving, and I'm telling you that by the time she left, she could have given tours of the town! As a real highlight, we went out to
Barkley Regional Airport and actually saw a plane land! Paducah is not big on air traffic, but if you want to go to Chicago, no problem! Thankfully, it's only two hours to Nashville, and you can get most anywhere from there. Our next stop was the
Coke Plant, which is a fun Art Deco building just down the street from my childhood home. It's been refurbished and re-purposed and is now home to a Mellow Mushroom, D
ry Ground Brewing Company,
Piper's Tea and Coffee, and more. Mary Jo and I enjoyed a local brew and then we headed back downtown - it was almost dinner time, and Doe's was calling me.
Doe's Eat Place is right on the corner of 2nd and Broadway, and it serves legendary steaks, tamales, and chocolate cobbler, among other delicious things. Now Mary Jo and Dana are Doe's fans, too.
Tuesday was our day for the National Quilt Museum, so we needed to start off fortified! My friend Judy met us at Gold Rush for a hearty breakfast, and then we walked over to the museum, which was the initial reason for this trip. As always, the museum exceeded expectations - I have never known anyone, male or female, who has been disappointed with their visit to the Quilt Museum. In fact, "mind blown" is the typical response. This is not your grama's quilt museum!! If you like art of ANY KIND, do yourself a favor and visit this museum someday. Just don't go during Quilt Week if you're not a quilter! You can read Dana's thoughts about the museum and Paducah
HERE. Although it is mostly under wraps due to renovation, I wanted to show off our impressive
City Hall, which was designed by the architect
Edward Durell Stone, who designed the Kennedy Center, MOMA, Radio City Music Hall, and loads of other important buildings back in the 60s. Thankfully, we were able to go inside and get a feel for things, even if we couldn't see the outside.
No one was hungry at lunch time, so we decided to go back to
Hancock's while it was open. Dana may have purchased a bit of fabric after being inspired at the museum. Since we were practically there anyway, I took my friends across the river to
Metropolis, home of Superman. I think that seeing Metropolis and how depressed (and depressing) it is made me appreciate Paducah and its efforts even more. Once back in Kentucky, we picked up Judy and took off for
Parker's Drive In out in Lone Oak (a suburb of Paducah) for a little afternoon pick me up. After that, we drove by my mom's last house, returned Judy to her house, and did a drive by of
Whitehaven, the only interstate highway Welcome Center that is in what used to be a private home. Next we were off to see my dear former next door neighbor, Mrs. Yaffe, who is in a nursing home now. Dana and Mary Jo are good sports, and it was wonderful to see Mrs. Yaffe. When we left, the nurses admonished us to hurry back to our hotel before the storm hit. Storm? Had we missed something? Turns out we had - major tornado warnings, in fact. So we moved the cars over to the porte cochere at the Carson Center (in case of hail) and then we hunkered down in the interior hallway of our hotel until the danger passed. Thankfully, it passed just in time for our evening meal at Paducah's only farm to table restaurant, the
Freight House. One of my oldest and dearest friends, Mary met us along with Judy for this fabulous dinner. Oh my, was it good! We closed down the restaurant - it takes time to share three desserts...
Since Mary Jo was heading for home on Wednesday afternoon, we needed to squeeze in a few important bits, namely, lunch at
Starnes Barbecue. But I'm getting ahead of myself, as breakfast comes first. We walked over to
Kirchoff's Bakery and
Et Cetera Coffeehouse for some breakfast foccacia and the necessary caffeine, and we may have lingered a bit, as our schedule was light today. We wandered over to the
Paducah School of Art and Design and looked around it, rode around a bit more, and then met Judy for our BBQ fix. Aaaaahhh. Now I can say I have been home! We said goodbye to Mary Jo there, and Judy headed home, too. Dana was ready for another trip to Hancock's, so I met another good friend, Rick, for a drink while Dana shopped. Rick and I enjoyed watching the par 3 tourney at the Masters and caught up on each other's lives. One of the things I appreciate most about going home is getting to see old friends and I especially appreciate that they make time for me. Dana picked me up and we rode around a bit more before it was time to welcome Deanna and meet Mary and Judy for dinner at
Cynthia's Ristorante. First, Mary and Judy stopped by our hotel for a drink (yes, it has a fabulous bar!) and Deanna got there just in time to share a drink before we walked over to Cynthia's. Believe it or not, I had never eaten at Cynthia's! I can assure you that this won't be my only trip there - it was fabulous! Again, we closed down the restaurant. Another great day in the books.
Dana would be leaving us on Thursday afternoon, so I asked my friend Kim if he would have any time to take us on a tour around
Lower Town. He's a
Paducah Ambassador and a fabulous storyteller, photographer, and lover of Paducah history, and best of all, he was free to show us around! We opted for a light breakfast at Kirchoff's again, and then we picked up Kim at the auto repair shop - sometimes things just work out! Dana drove, and Kim directed and narrated - Deanna and I just listened, looked, and learned. Kim is a wealth of knowledge - I learned so much! Before long, it was time for lunch, this time with Mary and Mary, who was back from her UNESCO meeting in Iowa City. Judy had taken off for New York City, so we missed her and Mary Jo. Kim joined us, and we all met at
Artisan Kitchen, which was also a new place for me. Score another big win! Everyone's meal looked so good, and they had tea with mint! We dropped Kim off to get his car, and then we had just enough time to stop by a little shop called
Ephemera that I've been wanting to visit for years. It was so cool - an art studio and shop, run by the delightful Kristen, who I learned is the daughter of Jack Reese, who was Chancellor of the University of Tennessee when I was there. So fun! Even better, my friend and classmate Dick was there with some of his friends, so we got to reconnect and see what they were working on. And even more better - they invited Deanna and me to join them on a guided tour of the Quilt Museum the next morning!
We said goodbye to Dana and sent her off to Nashville, and then Deanna and I did the floodwall murals, the riverfront, and a walking tour of downtown. This time, I used the
Paducah Cell Phone Tour, which was very informative. Again, I learned a few things. Oh, and I also re-met one of my junior high teachers, who works at the Visitors Bureau with Mary. Whenever I'm in Paducah and on my own, I always wonder if I'm seeing people that I used to know. Then I started recognizing children of people I used to know. Sadly, now it's probably grandchildren I would recognize! Mom left here ten years ago, so it's been a long time since I've had family here, but it will always be home. After walking around as much as we wanted to, it was time for the driving tour. You may be seeing a pattern here! We ended up having dinner at
Flamingo Row, out near the mall. Man, they still have some scrumptious burgers there!
On Friday, we started our day at Kirchoff's again (never had the same thing twice!) and then walked over to the Quilt Museum to meet with Dick and his friends. Our guide, Robert, is also a Paducah Ambassador, and he did a wonderful job. I will have to share what I learned with Dana and Mary Jo! They had rotated a few of the quilts in the main gallery, and one of the side galleries had a new exhibit that the early crew would have liked better. The new exhibit was quilts by Japanese artists, and they were fabulous! After being inspired by the quilts, we wandered downtown a bit more until it was time for lunch, which we decided to enjoy at
Shandie's, also downtown. This time, I got my catfish fix. Mmmm.... After lunch, we spent some time in the
Market House Museum, learning more about Paducah. Have I mentioned that my friends are really good sports? If it was more history than they wanted, they didn't say so! We opted to take a little break this afternoon and watch the Masters and maybe even have a bit of a nap. After all, we had to rest up for dinner! Tonight, we met Mary, Mary, and their significant others, Jon and Paul, at
Max's, where we had another great meal. I had to laugh - in landlocked (but near the lakes) Paducah, I had had silver carp, scallops, catfish, and tuna this week, balanced out by my Doe's steak and Flamingo Row burger. And it was all great! After dinner, I realized that I had not taken Deanna to the Coke Plant, so off we went! All too soon it was time to pack up and be ready to check out, because we had an early morning coming, and snow was in the forecast!
Sure enough, it snowed! In April! Yikes! But it wasn't bad, although we did have to clean off the car. We popped by
Red's Donuts and grabbed some of those delicious balls of dough. (Did you know Paducah has a
Krispy Kreme connection?) Paducah is blessed with some really good doughnut shops! Then we were off to
WKCTC (West Kentucky Community and Technical College, aka Wicky Ticky) to meet up for our tour of the
Paducah Gaseous Diffusion Plant, which is where my dad worked. The plant, as it was known, was one of three places in the US that enriched uranium for bombs and later for nuclear reactors. It was a highly secure place - I really only remember going there once the whole time Daddy worked there (which was from 1952 until 1985). The Department of Energy offers tours there several times a year, now that it is no longer in operation and is, in fast, being demolished. It is a HUGE complex - almost too big to fathom - and it is sad to see it in the shape it's in now, even though I understand why that is. In its heyday, it used as much energy as the city of St. Louis or Washington DC used (in a day). The tour was largely done in the bus - we got to go inside the communications building and we drove through one of the buildings where Daddy worked - but I'm so glad I went. Thanks for humoring me, Deanna!
After the plant tour, it was time for Deanna's introduction to nirvana via hickory smoked pit barbecue, so back we went to Starnes. Had we been in our car out at the plant, we would have dropped into Leigh's, which was Daddy's favorite, but it was too far to go back out there. We had time to run by the PSAD so Deanna could see it and to drop by Ephemera again - and we saw Dick there, again, too! Oh, that reminds me - our quilt show guide, Robert, was on the plant tour, too, as were Char and her husband, who run the
horse-drawn carriage business downtown. They will be busy in these next few weeks, once the dogwoods actually bloom for the
Dogwood Festival and of course for
Quilt Week, which is next week. One last trip to Kirchoff's for cookies for the road, and we were off to Nashville and our respective homes.
It was a spectacular week for me, as I love sharing Paducah with friends. Let me know when you are ready to go and I'll be happy to show you around! And I'm thinking Judy, Mary, Mary, and I could be Paducah food ambassadors.....that could be a real business, y'all! And while it may sound like we did all there is to do in Paducah, I could write an even longer blog about the things we didn't do! Paducah is full of surprises!
Jan
PS - You may want to plan now for the
next full solar eclipse, which will be on 8 April 2024, visible in Paducah (again)!